(Too Short) A Visit to Siem Reap

Temples aren’t really my thing.  Or perhaps I should say thaaang.

Don’t get me wrong.  I enjoy visiting a beautiful temple, cathedral, mosque, synagogue, etc.  I’ll even spend a day to go out of my way and visit one.

But I’m not going to fly to a city just to see the temples.  I’m more of a beachy-outdoorsy-jungle-food type guy, and I’ll fly around the world to a place that features incredible beaches/outdoorsy-ness/jungles/food/etc.

If you tell me, “Hey, there’s this city that you can go to and the only reason to go there is to see temples all day, every day,” I’m probably going to smile and nod and let my mind wander off to more interesting things, like training 4 monkeys to play Metallica covers while dressed like the band.

Yes, sometimes my mind goes there while I’m talking to you.  It ain’t personal.

Anyway, the aforementioned description perfectly suits Siem Reap, Cambodia.  From what we knew about the little town it was apparently dusty but pleasant, but the only reason to visit was to see the Temples of Angkor, particularly Angkor Wat.

So personally I would have skipped Siem Reap.  However, since Angkor Wat is commonly described as one of those “must-see”, “wonder of the world”, “way frickin’ awesome” spots, we figured we should probably bow to the wisdom of the crowd and go.

The living room and kitchen of our digs in Siem Reap. It was a beautiful apartment and much bigger than we thought it would be.  Plus it had a great pool, which was a huge bonus after spending a hot and dusty day traipsing around the temples.

Siem Reap was a quick flight from Da Nang, and we got our bearings right away.  To our delight we found the town sported a nice big grocery store, the Angkor Market, where we were able to stock up on eggs, bacon, lunch staples, and snacks for our six-day stay.

The town was indeed a dusty little place – on more than one occasion I found myself referring to it as “The Wild West” – but relatively clean and full of character.  Instead of the bicycles upon which we had relied in Hoi An, we zipped around by tuk-tuk, or remork, as they’re known in Cambodia.

[My apologies to the Minister of Tourism in Cambodia, but I’m calling them tuk-tuks.  They look like tuk-tuks, so they’re tuk-tuks.  I’m a simple fellow.]

A Quick – And Unintentionally Expensive – Visit to the Alps

Our tuk-tuk driver in Siem Reap was Mr. Nok, a friendly, upbeat fellow who spoke excellent English and was quick with a smile.  Tuk-tuk travel in the parts of Cambodia where they’re used is easy:  call the number of your favorite driver or flag one down on the street, point out on a map where you want to go, and agree on a price.

Most trips in and around Siem Reap were either $1 or $2, and a half-day trip out to the temples, during which your driver takes you to each temple, shows you where to enter and where he’ll meet you, and waits for you at each stop, runs around $15.

So, the tally:

  • Cute town – check
  • Modern supermarket – check
  • Easy transportation – check

Boom.  We dug Siem Reap instantly, even before seeing a single temple.

The plan for our six days in Siem Reap was to spend at least two days visiting the Temples of Angkor (there are more than a thousand) and taking days to chill as necessary, and if we wished we could add a third day of Temple Exploration.

Approaching Angkor Wat
At the entrance to the inner courtyard of Angkor Wat
Outside the front edifice of Angkor Wat
Looking towards the central tower of Angkor Wat.  I have no idea what that round thing is on the ground.  I’m going to say it’s an olive and stick to that.
Our little dude checking out the grounds of Angkor Wat
My bride and the iconic towers of Angkor Wat

We had assumed that two days would be more than enough and we probably wouldn’t need to add a third day.  We had also heard from many people that “one day was enough” to see the temples.

Our subsequent experience taught us that – once again – we need to take most of what we hear from other travelers with a grain of salt.  Everyone is different, and everyone’s take on a location is going to vary.  Invariably.

Outpatient Surgery in Mauritius – Good Times!

We hit three temples with Mr. Nok during our first full day in Siem Reap, and we loved it.  The boy had a rough morning at our first temple, Angkor Wat, but to be fair we got a late start, he needed a snack, and it was the dead of winter in Cambodia so the mercury was topping out just short of 100 degrees.

After we ironed out our differences (due to a temper tantrum were forced to scrap a family photo in front of the famous Angkor Wat in favor of a pic of just Juliann and I) we had a fantastic day.

Wall of one of the outer galleries of Angkor Wat. This wall in particular was carved with a single enormous scene of heaven and hell.
Talking through the clash of armies on one of the walls of Angkor Wat. You can see in the background just how far these walls go, and the incredibly intricate and beautiful carvings go from end to end.
Great photo, right? What really completes the picture is knowing that there is a teary-eyed 4-year old standing in the shade of a palm tree just off camera, screaming “I’m NEVER gonna take a picture AGAIN!” at the top of his lungs while a large group of Chinese tourists look on, bewildered.
The crumbling walls of Bayon
Exploring Bayon with my guy
The faces of Buddha at Bayon

We saw three temples on the first day, Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm (used in the film Tomb Raider, which I haven’t seen.  Yet.)  Then we took a day off to goof around Siem Reap, and then did another 3-Temple day at Preah Khan, Neak Pean (which we came to think of as “The Water Temple”), and East Mebon.

Then we didn’t even bother to take a day off.  We were excited to see more temples so we visited Ta Som, Preah Rup, and Banteay Kdei.

The jungle approach to Ta Prohm, where scenes from “Tomb Raider” were filmed
Just being a kid
The walls of Ta Prohm
At the ruins of an old entrance at Ta Prohm
More of what the jungle has done to Ta Prohm
No idea what they’re whispering about.  Setting me up for a fall, no doubt.
Juliann in an inner courtyard at Ta Prohm

The temples were amazing.  Each had their own special qualities and atmosphere, and we loved exploring all of them.  The boy was thrilled to run through the ancient galleries and climb the decaying stone steps.  We marveled at the resilience of the nearly 1,000-year-old structures and imagined what life was like for the people that built and used them.

More of Ta Prohm
Inside Ta Prohm with my bud
At Terrazza, washing away the dust of our first day of exploring
Taking an art class during our “R&R Day”
Buddhas lining a bridge at Preah Khan

We can still remember each of the temples vividly.  There was Angkor Wat, of course, which we now wish we had seen last instead of first, simply because it was so much more majestic than any of the other temples.

Bayon was the Place of Faces.  Neak Pean we renamed The Water Temple.  We loved the elephants and the lions of Preah Rup, and climbing the stairs to the upper terrace of East Mebon.  At Preah Khan Juliann and the boy looked for holes in the stone blocks, evidence of the ancients’ building techniques, and at Ta Som we sought out “The Tree”, where we waited patiently with a group of 50+ tourists to snap our picture in front of its iconic roots.

One of the ancient Buddha statues on a bridge
Mother and son exploring Preah Khan together
Posing for a snap with my bud inside Preah Khan
Inside Preah Khan
Blowing off some steam outside Preah Khan
Looking around Preah Khan
Taking a quiet moment on the walk to Neak Pean
The island temples of Neak Pean
The walk back to shore from Neak Pean
Starting the walk up to the top level of East Mebon
The view from East Mebon

When we weren’t visiting temples, we were either splashing around in the pool or enjoying the easy pleasures of Siem Reap.  I got in a workout at Angkor Fight Club.  Braeden and Juliann played some Cambodian-style mini golf.  We grabbed dinner at places like Jungle Burger and Viva, a Mexican joint.  We enjoyed lunch and some cold beers at the Temple Bar on “Pub Street” while watching the world go by, including one bedraggled street performer who looked like he had woken up 15 minutes earlier with a needle in his arm.

B’s first crack at mini golf
B’s a huge Batman fan, so we were naturally excited when we got picked up by “Batman”, a tuk-tuk driver with a great sense of humor and a tuk-tuk decorated with Batman logos.
Stepping into Ta Som
Detail of one of the decorative lintels at Ta Som
The “Root Door” at Ta Som
A lion at Preah Rup
Preah Rup
Just outside the main courtyard at Preah Rup there are stone elephant statues on the four corners of the walls. We had to get a shot with one.
Inside the main entrance to Banteay Kdei
In Banteay Kdei. We look at these shots sometimes and realize wistfully that our baby is now a boy. He’s growing up so fast.
An enormous tree pushing its way through Banteay Kdei
Exploring Banteay Kdei
Leaving our last temple, Banteay Kdei, to meet Mr. Nok
Srah Srang, the bathing pool dug for the king and his wives. The water is now used for rice cultivation and the steps the king used to take for his daily dip are now a great place to hang out and watch the sun set. It’s a beautiful spot.

Our six days in Siem Reap went by too fast, and before we knew it we were packing to fly to our next destination, Sihanoukville.  We had a fantastic time and we would have loved to spend another week in that dusty little town.

I’m hoping to get back there someday to explore more temples and see some old favorites.  Development in Cambodia is proceeding quickly, though, so I’m sure the next time we visit we may not even recognize the town.

Such is life.  Next up:  Sihanoukville!

 

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