Lessons from a Year on the Road, and Barcelona in our Hearts

The last week of June and the first week of July we were in Barcelona.  Which means 12 months after we left the U.S. for our new nomadic lifestyle, we celebrated in one of the coolest cities in Spain.

On July 2nd, 2017, we woke up, looked at each other, and said, “Holy shit, it’s been a year.”  Twelve full months since we started this craziness, and it went by (like most things in life do) both in a flash and incredibly, delightfully slowly.

So now, a few weeks later (we’re currently in a wonderful little cottage in Shanagarry, Ireland) is the perfect time to reflect on some things we’ve learned from this new lifestyle.

There’s a Grand-Canyon-Sized Gulf Between Needs and Wants

A year before we became nomads, we were like many other American families:  a couple of cars, a house, rooms full of furniture, and a mound of stuff in the garage that slowly, creepingly, grew every year.

Even then I was stubbornly resistant to acquiring things, to the point that my poor wife felt like it was impossible to buy anything other than food without me looking it over like a suspicious Customs agent.  But that didn’t stop our house from slowly filling up, it just happened a bit more slowly than others.

Now things couldn’t be more different.  The three of us each have a backpack and a carry on, and everything we own now fits in those bags.  The two exceptions are Juliann’s yoga mat and Braeden’s scooter.

[Explaining a yoga mat to a CrossFitter like me is like explaining air to a fish.  “Why can’t you just do yoga on the floor?”, “But why not?”, “Isn’t the floor as same as the mat?”, etc.  Like I said:  my poor wife.]

Braeden and I have been living more or less with the same set of 1 week’s worth of clothes for a year (we’ve replaced a few items, of course, and I’ve treated myself to a few CrossFit shirts at the various gyms I’ve visited) and we could care less.

Check Out:  Living and Loving [Koh] Lanta

We have our laptops.  Our camera.  Braeden has a few comics and books and Legos.  And that’s pretty much it.  It’s amazing to be able to pack our bags, hop in a car/boat/train/taxi/plane, and step into a new home in a different country with everything we need.  I realize now the things I really require in my life to be happy – beyond food, water, and shelter, and my wife and son – are:

  • My family and friends
  • A challenge for my body
  • A challenge for my mind

Everything else is a nice-to-have.  So now, when I have to make a decision, if it’s between one of the above and something else, it’s easy.

Braeden and Mommy went to Sephora and decided to have an at-home spa day
MasterBlaster taking Barcelona by storm
Cathedral de Barcelona, a few minutes’ walk from our place in town
The “Music Palace”, just a few blocks from our apartment. It’s an amazing Gaudi-inspired building, but it’s not easy to see or photograph because the other buildings in the neighborhood are right on top of it.

People Everywhere Are Awesome

When we first started telling people about our plans in late 2015, we heard a lot of, “Oh the French are…” or, “People in the Emirates are…”, etc, usually followed by something negative.  Citizens of just about every country we had planned to visit were subject to some sort of criticism.

Except the Thais.  No one had a bad thing to say about the Thai people.

Anyway, what we found is that the people in every country we went to were fantastic.  To paraphrase something I read a few years ago,  “People are wonderful all over the world.  It’s governments that suck.”

Check Out:  Heavy Traffic in Life’s Slow Lane – Hoi An

There was not a single place we visited where the majority of the people didn’t welcome us and make us feel at home.  Sure, we’ve run across some grouchy folks, like the fellow in Venice that yelled at us for eating on the steps of a church.  Or the little old lady in Hanoi that overcharged the f**k out of me for a bunch of bananas.

But people are good.  They’re just like you and me.  They want to enjoy their lives, they love their kids, and they’re more than willing to help a stranger in need.

We took a bike tour of Barcelona, and one of our first stops was in Parc de la Cuitadella, which featured this eye-popping fountain
Braeden found a Bubble Guy in the park. When I’m in my eighties I think I’m just going to train CrossFit and be a Bubble Guy all day.
For weeks Braeden had been excited to see Sagrada Familia. Here J is capturing his first glimpse of it. He’s been talking about Gaudi’s masterpiece ever since.
The day after our bike tour we returned to Sagrada Familia to tour the inside. Here I’m trying to get a good selfie shot with Braeden, and he can’t take his eyes off it.
The interior. It wasn’t exactly what I’d call beautiful, but it was certainly impressive. Star Wars meets Ferngully meets the Rainforest Cafe.
Naturally, if there’s a tall tower in town, we gotta climb it. Here J and the boy are making their way up the Nativity Tower in Sagrada Familia.
The inside of the Nativity Tower
The stairs down. It’s not easy to tell from the pic, but the steps are *steep* and that void in the center goes all the way down to the ground floor, several hundred feet. I was gripping the boy’s hand like it was a flat screen TV at Target on Black Friday.
Gaudi apparently made the sculptures of the animals by dosing them with ether and then casting them. We didn’t mention this to Braeden.
The entrance in the Nativity facade, the one most frequently photographed. It was the only one that Gaudi designed and supervised himself, and the detail is incredible.
Detail from the huge doors of the Nativity facade
More from the interior
Sculptures on the Passion facade, the side of the building dedicated to Christ’s death

The World May Have Gotten Smaller, But It’s Still Goddamned Huge

Yeah, it’s easier than ever to travel long distances.  You can cross continents in just a few hours, and the internet has made the world feel miniscule.

It’s still a freaking planet, though.  We’ve stayed a month or two in some countries and we feel like we’ve only scratched the surface.  The world is so rich, so full of experience and amazing things to see, that even if you were able to travel for years much more energetically than we have there would still be so much you wouldn’t have seen.

If you’re a glass-half-full person like me, that’s comforting.  The planet on which we live is, for all intents and purposes, infinite.

A fireplace nook in Casa Batllo, an amazing private home designed by Gaudi
The terrace of Casa Batllo
The “lightwell”, or sunlit stairwell. The top of the stairwell had two giant skylights, and the walls were a beautiful shade of blue that started light at the top and got progressively darker as you descended.  Going down the stairs felt like descending into the ocean.
One of Gaudi’s biggest fans making his way up the lightwell
The incredible roof of Casa Batllo
More of the roof
Casa Batllo from the street

You Are Your Own Lifeboat

Traveling around the world as a family of three isn’t easy.  I know, there are worse things, but still, everyone we talk to seems to think we drink rum and sleep in hammocks all day.

[Ok, we try to do that often, but not every day]

It’s work.  We live on the road.  Which means we LIVE on the road.  We do laundry.  Keep in touch with friends and family.  Keep a business growing.  Work out.  Homeschool Braeden.  Figure out where the f**k we can get good produce.  Deal with SIM cards.  Swear at slow internet connections.  Etc.

There are rare times when I slump in a chair and think, “I just wanna be home.”  And then I remember that there is no more home.  There’s just a tiny storage unit in Rocky Hill, CT filled with clothes and memories.

But then I realize that I have my home with me.  We have everything we need, right here with us, and regardless of the circumstances, we’ll be ok.  And then I feel better.

Juliann and I are avid divers, but when we bought our home in 2010 we didn’t dive for a few years.  On our first vacation with Braeden in Belize I just had to dive the Blue Hole, so I made it my first dive back in the water.  No tuneup dive for me, oh no, I just hopped on the boat and off we went.

That was a huge mistake.  A few hours later I was in the middle of the Blue Hole, 120 feet down, and suddenly I found myself doing something I had never done underwater before:  I panicked.  I looked up to the surface and saw the dive boat far above me, a tiny speck that might as well have been a hundred miles away.  Even though my tank was full I felt as if I were running out of air.  My panic thickened.  I gasped and fought the urge to bolt for the surface.  I knew if I did I was dead, but I felt that if I stayed there in the deep blue I would die.

I slowed my breathing and thought of my tank.  My regulator.  My BC.  I told myself that I had everything that I needed to survive right here with me, and I slowly calmed myself down.  After a few minutes I rejoined my group and finished the dive.

Now, every time I feel that sense of “I want to be home,” I tell myself that I have everything I need right here with me.  Home is here, wherever I happen to be with my wife and son.

And Barcelona

I’m writing this on August 20th, 2017, just a few days after a couple of assholes decided that killing a bunch of people on Las Ramblas  with a rented van would make the world a better place.

I loved Barcelona, and the people there were wonderful to us.  We were terribly saddened to hear about the attacks, and our thoughts are with the Spanish people.

J and her Picasso tat at the Picasso Museum. It was a wonderful museum, and I don’t think we’ve been anywhere that had so many of Picasso’s works. We had a blast just slowly wandering around and talking about the paintings and ceramic work.
We’ve been gently encouraging the boy to take on another project since his last, the volcano he and J made in Cortona. In Barcelona he decided he wanted to build a model treehouse, so he picked out a design and we built one together.
Looking out over Parc Guell, a city park designed by Gaudi
Some of the buildings in the park
Wandering around the park
Braeden read about Gaudi’s Dragon in his Bella and Harry book, and from the minute we landed in Barcelona he wanted to go looking for the dragon. We found it in Parc Guell and he was delighted.
Up close with the Gaudi Dragon
The area under the main square of Parc Guell is a large open space and was designed to host a market.  The ceiling, highlighted by our young Vanna White here, has dozens of these beautiful decorated disks in it.
Getting ready to say goodbye to the park and get some tapas on the way home
Near the entrance
Hero shot
Braeden taking a mosaic-making class at Mosaicco

The city of Barcelona itself was fantastic.  We didn’t have the most peaceful apartment but the location in the El Born neighborhood was perfect.  We were able to walk to the Gothic Quarter and the waterfront in just minutes, I was three blocks away from CrossFit Eixample, an excellent gym, and we had a few delicious tapas restaurants right around the corner.

Gaudi-inspired design – and Gaudi’s work itself – was everywhere.  It’s an amazing city to explore, especially with a 5-year-old who loves art and architecture.

We went on a bike tour, visited Sagrada Familia multiple times, spent time exploring the Gothic Quarter, checked out Parc Guell and Casa Batllo, and ate at some inspiring restaurants, including El Xampanyat (GO NOW!) and Casa Lolea.

I also indulged in way too much Tinto Verano (red wine and lemon soda with ice) and Vermouth.

One day late in our stay we rented a car and drove up to Montserrat, an abbey located high in the mountains.  We parked in the lot at the base of the mountain and took the rack rail train up to the abbey, where we spent a few hours wandering around, admiring the ancient buildings, hiking a few of the trails, and grabbing a not-so-special cafeteria lunch.

The streets of Montserrat
The view from the central plaza at Montserrat
Looking towards Barcelona
Riding one of the funiculars down to see Santa Covo, a sacred cave where the locals would hide their relics from invaders
Blowing off a little steam at the playground in the shadow of Sagrada Familia
Saying goodbye to the boy’s new favorite building, Sagrada Familia. Sorry, Burj Khalifa!

We enjoyed Barcelona and I thought it was a near-perfect city:  cosmopolitan, amazing architecture, near the sea and mountains, incredible food, and great people.  The boy is excited to go back when Sagrada Familia is finally finished, supposedly in 2026, and I know I’m dying to hit El Xampanyat again for some tapas.  I think I can wait that long.

Next:  Sevilla!

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4 thoughts on “Lessons from a Year on the Road, and Barcelona in our Hearts”

  1. I love reading about your travel adventures. Thank you so much for sharing your stories with all of us. Much love to all three of you.

    Carol

  2. I love this. I love everything about this! Especially about how governments ruin everything. People ARE wonderful everywhere! Barcelona is my favorite city bar none. We hope able to join you in leaving it all behind in the next year or so. That’s the plan anyway.

  3. Two pieces of advice from fellow authors: If you don’t risk being garish “, you risk being bland.” And another one: “I believe writers block is simply the fear of writing badly.”

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